If you buy a set of fin blades and footpockets separately and need to put them together, there are a few things you need to check and a some tips to making fitting easier.
First of all, check that the blades will fit into the footpockets. Some are designed for a screw-fitting that makes the job much easier. Check that the footpockets have or come with a fixing set. All of our screw-fit pockets have fixing kits included. The kit will consist of the correct size stainless steel screws, and small plates for securing the screws through or into. If the blades are the " matching" ones for the footpockets, they will have screw holes that line up with those in the fixing kit, so the job is a simple one requiring just a lining up of parts and a screwdriver. There will also be 2 C-clips for securing the side tendons of the footpockets onto the rails of the blades.
If the blades are of another brand, first check that the blades will indeed fit the footpockets in shape or design. If the footpocket is screw-fit and the blades have no holes or holes in the wrong place, then you will need to drill holes through the blade to attach them using the fixing kit. But first make sure that the manufacturer advises drilling is compatible with the blade shape, material and construction.
An alternative is to use a footpocket designed for glue-fitting. This is a very secure method for fitting blades to footpockets and does not require any complication of drilling the blades. It is then a matter of using the correct type of glue. Some options for gluing the footpockets are to use 3M 5200 or Loctite 406. These are both “super glue” Cyanoacrylates and you should be able to find them in both clear or black if you choose. You will need to apply pressure and/or a weighted flat board over the glue area until the glue sets.
Pre-fit the blade to the footpocket, before gluing, then mask up to the edge where the tendons push onto the blades. This will minimise messing up your nice shiny blades with glue dribbles or fingerprints. If you ever need to remove the blades from the footpockets, you can use sikaflex 291 to glue the tongue of the blade into the base of the footpocket and use the “super glue” for the tendons. This will make removal of footpockets a whole lot easier if need be. Note: the sikaflex won’t hold the tendons in well enough so you can’t use it for them. You will also need to apply weight or pressure to the join until the sikaflex hardens.
You'll need to pre-clean all rubber surfaces to be glued with suitable solvent, detergent or sandpaper. Then it is a matter of applying the glue and sikaflex to the appropriate sections of the footpocket and easing the masked up blade into place. When the glue is dry, remove the masking tape from the blade.
Another variation is to use a screw-fit footpocket but to glue fit it to an undrilled blade. You will need some of the parts in the fixing kit to do this. Again, pre-fitting, masking and pre-cleaning of the blades and footpockets is required. However, you can use sikaflex to fit the tongue of the blade into the base of the footpocket. Glue in any cover plates necessary to fill recesses in the footpockets. The tendons can either be simply slotted onto the side rails of the blades and secured with the C-clips provided. Or if the blades do not have side T-rails, glued on using the super glue method above and glue on the C-clips as well.
Of course it is even simpler to buy your fins already assembled, or match the blades to the brand and style of footpocket for easy assembly.
To improve the chances of your flopper catching on the fish, use a pair of pliers to gently and very lightly turn the tip of the flopper away from the shaft. Be careful as too much bend will alter the trajectory of your shaft and the accuracy of the gun dramatically.
When shooting a bottom sand-dwelling fish, like a flathead, or shooting a fish from above, and your spear shaft will penetrate into the sand, chances are your flopper will fail to open if sand is caught under the edges. Tip: in this instance, leave the shaft in the sand, swim down and secure the fish, rather than pulling your shaft back, expecting your flopper to open, as it may not.
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Use a sturdier/shorter boning type knife for bones(ribs) sharpened with less angle, to avoid rapid dulling of the blade. A longer more flexible knife is used for filleting the flesh of the fish, sharpened with a longer thinner shoulder of the blade.
A breaker/scimitar knife is perfect for steaking fish like mackerel, wahoo, black king, etc.
A skinning knife can be sharpened on one side only, using the dull side down, sharp side up.
Remove the oxygen from packaging bags that you put your fish in. Wrap in layers of newspaper to minimise freezer burn. Zip lock bags are very convenient for packaging fish fillets and easy to remove excess juice and air from the bags.
If fogging persists, the next step to try is using a lighter flame, carefully heat (without damaging the edges of the mask) the entire lens/es of the mask inside and out. Some carbon may form, but is easily washed off. The flame need only be applied a few seconds over each lens of a twin lens mask. Be very careful so as not to heat the glass too much and damage the surrounding material. This method is not suitable for a non-glass lens. This can be tested and repeated if necessary until fogging is eliminated.
Another method, if you have acetone and a soft cloth, use them to clean all inside surfaces of mask body and glass, then thoroughly rinse off.
For a simpler method, there are manufactured bottles of cleaners and anti-fog sprays, available through our online store. These are very simple to use and can be carried with you for use at any time.
If you find the mask leaks: Firstly adjust the mask strap so the mask is firm but not tight on your face. The strap should be placed on the biggest circumference point of your head. This way the tension on the mask is directly behind the position of the lenses on your eyes, to give the best possible even seal. If the strap falls below this point it loosens and pulls unevenly.
Check that there is no hair under the edge of the sealing surface or neoprene from a hood if worn. Shaving facial hair ensures a smoother surface for sealing. If you have a moustache, petroleum jelly often helps in sealing the silicone to the hairy surface of your face. But avoid spreading the petroleum jelly to other areas as it can damage rubber-based products.
To test, simply hold up onto your face and suck through your nose to draw mask onto your face. If you can hear a leak, it could be any of the above, or if not, check for loose or ill-fitted lenses or perforations in the mask body.
If a lens is loose it may be fixable, but damage to the soft body of the mask could mean you need to buy a new mask.
]]>These fins are currently available with blades of thermoplastic or composite materials such as fibreglass, carbon or carbon/kevlar. Price varies with the types of material in the blades and the labour content of manufacture, with thermoplastics being the least expensive and carbon composite the most expensive.
The least expensive type of fin is a molded one-piece foot pocket and thermoplastic blade. These are normally very robust. If you are on a budget or new to the sport these would be a fine choice. However if you damage a blade or foot pocket badly, that is the end of your fins.
Two-piece fins have thermoplastic or composite blades. These have the advantage that blades can be replaced or interchanged, using the same footpockets. So if a blade or footpocket is damaged it can be replaced separately.
They also allow freedom of choice. By choosing a quality two-piece thermoplastic fin and an extra set of composite blades only, it is possible to change the blade according to your needs.
Generally, it follows that the more expensive the fins, the lighter the blade, the better the dynamics and efficiency of the blade and footpocket. If you require a fin for shorter dives, shore entries or rock hopping, thermoplastic blades are highly suited. If you are into extended long swims, diving really deep or swim in lots of current, you may wish to consider the more expensive end of the spectrum.
Ultimate performance is really about the marriage of the right blade with the right footpocket. Subtle differences in these combinations can dramatically alter the end performance of any combination.
There are many types of footpockets, with varying combinations of stiffness of rubber throughout the pockets and also the tendons that extend from the footpocket, along the sides of the blade. To get the most performance from any blade, the relative hardness of the rubbers in a footpocket must be in the right places: the sole, for transfer of the power from the foot to the blade; and in the tendons, as this affects the way in which the blade flexes and how it performs.
There are many shapes of foot pockets suiting different shaped feet. Some have very soft and flexible rubber, some stiff. We will attempt to guide you in your choice of fins, footpockets and blades, though our descriptions and sizing charts. If you require further assistance, contact us.
What seems like a very complicated decision - what wetsuit to choose? - becomes a bit more understandable when you look at how neoprene fabric is manufactured. Neoprene is made from foaming synthetic rubber with nitrogen gas while it is still in liquid form, before it is set. These trapped bubbles are what helps keep the warmth within the suit. Of course the thicker the suit, the warmer it will be, but also the more buoyant it becomes, as there is more gas trapped in there, so extra weights are needed. For tropical regions you may only want a suit of 1mm to 1.5mm thickness, but divers in the cold southern waters of Australia may require 5 to 7mm suits to keep warm. Everyone else will want something in between, depending on the person, the time of year, exact location, depth and the amount of time spent in the water, etc.
Better quality neoprenes have smaller bubbles of nitrogen and more synthetic rubber material, so generally the heavier a suit feels for its thickness, the better the quality of neoprene. Poorer quality wetsuits have large bubbles in them, so will seem light for their thickness. These large bubbles easily explode when diving, so very quickly these suits compact and lose their thickness and effectiveness as wetsuits. Don't be fooled - it may seem like you are getting a bargain, but a wetsuit made of cheap quality neoprene simply will not last very long. You will save in the long run in not having to replace your wet suit as often, by investing a little bit more into a quality neoprene suit.
Neoprene fabric used in wetsuits can have various finishes:
(1) Smoothskin or closed cell - the skin that sets on the outside of the synthetic foam rubber. This is very smooth and quite soft yet still fairly tough, it will seal pretty well against the skin. It is often used for the inside seals around the wrists, ankles and face as it seals yet will not get damaged too easily. A whole wetsuit, with a complete closed or smooth cell finish on the outside, is great for extra warmth, especially if you want to keep out the wind when travelling between dive sites. Smoothskin also gives smoother, slicker movement through the water. Sometimes the neoprene is painted to add colour or pattern.
(2) Opencell - imagine cutting the skin of the foam rubber to reveal all the bubbly bits. The finish is generally used on the inside of suits, is very soft and flexible and it grips and seals extremely well against the skin. It sticks to the skin, so not allowing any pockets of water to get in or move around and disturb the warmth. Opencell finish makes for an extremely comfortable and warm wetsuit, particularly as the joins are glued so there is no stitching against the skin. This finish is very soft and can be damaged by your nails, so make sure you are careful when putting on and removing your suit and keep toe and fingernails short. You will also need to use lubrication to put on your suit.
(3)Nylon/Lycra/ Fabric - a knitted fabric is glued to the outside of the neoprene. Most commonly this is nylon, sometimes other fabrics are used. Neoprene with coatings of fabric will be very durable, but not as flexible, stretchable or comfortable. The seams will be stitched to protect the edges of the fabric from unravelling. Wetsuits with fabric coating inside won't be as warm as uncoated, as the knitted fabric doesn't stick to the skin as well on the inside so can allow some water to get inside the suit. They are also not windproof, but can take a lot more wear and tear than uncoated neoprene and don't need lubrication. Knitted fabric on the outside of the suit will protect the neoprene and give pattern and colour to the wetsuit.
(4) Slick Coatings - are mostly silver or gold finishes applied to opencell insides of suits. These are a great feature and worth paying extra for. The advantages are you will combine most of the comfort, softness and flexibility of an opencell finish, with gaining the added warmth of closed cell, while achieving a finish that is much tougher and doesn't always require lubrication. They will have glued seams as well for comfort.
Along with quality, thickness and finishes of the neoprene, the style and cut of a wetsuit need to be considered. A one piece suit is simple, quick and easy to put on, usually with a back zipper. But it won't be as warm as a two piece suit.
Look at the features of a suit, not just the fancy patterns or colours. Some of the features and their benefits to look out for in a suit:
Safety should be your number one priority. Carry a whistle and mirror on your float. Even consider carrying water, energy bars, flares, GPS/EPIRB, knife, if practical. Always ensure you have a dive flag and your float is high visibility.
A rigid code flag alpha is preferred. In conditions with no wind, soft unsupported flags may not be visible. The longer the flag pole the better for superior visibility.
Let someone know where you are going and your expected return time. Try to always stay visible to your dive buddy.
When it come to spearfishing success, you should roughly know the target species you will encounter for a given dive and location. This enables you to select the most appropriate equipment for the task and be best prepared.
Carry and be familiar with the current regulations for bag limits and sizes in the area you are diving as well as marine parks laws and zoning.
Carry a soft plastic ruler for measuring.Have the equipment to clip fins or punch crayfish tails if necessary.
Only shoot what you can eat. Unnecessary killing or wasting of fish can be seen to give the sport of spear fishing a bad name.
]]>Spearfishing is an age-old sport that is the result of thousands of years of trial, error and scientific advances. While we have seen the techniques and purpose of spearfishing alter and improve dramatically over the centuries, there is no doubting that the most significant change to spearfishing is the development of the speargun. In fact, one could argue that with this invention, we’ve just about perfected the art of spearfishing.
From the emergence of rubber spearguns right through to the rail gun, there is one more speargun that is finally entering the market - the roller speargun. After years of immense popularity in Europe, it is slowly making its way onto our Australian shores, which begs the question- what is so great about this particular speargun?
While some believe the roller speargun is a new product on the market, this couldn’t be any further from the truth. Using a method that dates back many years, the roller speargun has only gained recent attention in Australia due to advancements in technology making it more readily and commercially available.
So, what is a roller speargun and how does it differ from traditional spearguns?
Take the normal rubber powered speargun for example. This type of traditional speargun has a head or muzzle that the rubber screws into or passes through side to side to give a leverage point for loading the speargun. The rubber is joined in the centre by the bridle or wishbone, used for loading onto the spear shaft. Quite often two, three or more rubbers are used to give greater power.
In contrast to this is the roller speargun. Unlike the rubber-powered speargun, the roller speargun has a muzzle with two spinning rollers- one on each side of the rubber, which are attached to a leverage point on the underside of the speargun barrel or handle. The rubbers on either side run parallel under the barrel, up and over the rollers, and then join at the bridle.
So, what are the benefits of investing in the roller speargun?
With better accuracy, faster speed and punching power, this speargun boasts perfection. Just a few of the outstanding features include:
Punching power
Unlike conventional spearguns in which the rubber bands take up only 30-40 per cent of the barrel length, the roller speargun allows you to utilize the full length of the barrel, as the spear shaft is accompanied all the way to the end of the barrel. Essentially, the roller speargun gets its extra power from the longer band pull, instead of more bands. Likewise, the pre-tensioned rubbers underneath allow for more power and strength, resulting in more speed and momentum. This increase in power allows for more penetration on the target and more accuracy and range of your shot. As such, there is no need to add extra rubber bands to gain more power in the roller; it is merely a matter of shortening the length of the leverage point on the underside of the speargun and increasing the diameter of the rubber used, which will be much faster to load with only one rubber. This means the roller has more range and for the same barrel length there is much more force.
Reduced Recoil
Another positive aspect of the Roller Speargun is that it has no recoil- essentially meaning, unlike many traditional spearguns, the force of impact will not make the speargun spring back once it has been triggered. Not only does this make the speargun easier to handle, it also makes it more silent. The sturdiness of the roller speargun allows for a stable shooting platform, and allows you to maneuver more effectively in strong currents and rough conditions and avoid “shaft whip”.
Once the speargun is triggered and the spear is released, the wishbones come to an instant halt and the rubber bands pull in the opposite direction of the spear shaft, ensuring the speargun remains steady, diminishing the majority of the recoil. As any experienced spearo would know, reduced recoil is a great benefit as it makes the gun easier to fire with higher accuracy and excellent swing.
Easy loading
While both spearguns function by pulling the rubber and bridle to a loading notch, pin or fine on the spear, the standard rubber powered speargun generally uses rubbers that are significantly shorter than the total barrel length, so there is a straight stretch pull to triple the length of the rubber. Quite often, this type of gun can be difficult to load, particularly for beginners. On the other hand, roller spearguns are much easier to load because the rollers act like a pulley, reducing the force needed.
If you find yourself reading this and wishing you had invested in a roller speargun, do not fret because it is in fact possible to modify a standard rubber powered speargun to a roller, through changing the head and altering the rubbers.
If you want to know more about Roller Spearguns and its benefits, why not give our experienced staff a call on (07) 3409 9666 or shoot us an email at info@spearfishingproducts.com.au.
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